Patternmaking Essentials

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If you’ve sewn from commercial patterns, want to understand how to alter them to fit you better, add a detail, or change a silhouette, it’s time to learn pattern drafting!

I got my start on social media with my viral Mini Patternmaking series - in each video, I take inspiration from popular styles, your favorite celebrity looks, and photos you all have sent me and show you how to create a pattern for it. All of them start from the basic pattern block (or sloper), a set of simple patterns that can be manipulated in different ways to create your unique designs.

If you’re looking to get started with patternmaking, here’s a comprehensive list of the tools you need to get started.

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• Dotted pattern paper - $30

  • While many use parchment paper or wrapping paper, the benefit of professional pattern paper is the markings - with a 1” grid, the letters and numbers help with accurate measurements and keeping lines straight.

• Clear, gridded straight ruler - $10

  • Can a regular ruler work? yes. Is it absolutely game changing to be able to add seam allowance in one go because you can see through the ruler and the measurements go both directions? absolutely.

• Hip curve ruler

  • Exactly what it sounds like - perfect for making gentle curves symmetrical and easy.

• French Curve - $10

  • For armholes, necklines, bust curves, and tighter arcs

• Measuring Tape

  • For taking your body measurements before you start drafting!

• Tracing paper & Tracing Wheel

  • For accurate mark-copying. edits, and adjustments - works like carbon copy paper

• Muslin - $35

  • Cheap fabric for you to create a mock up and fit before cutting your final fabric

• And of course, my step by step guide to drafting the basic pattern set!

  • This will take you through the bodice front and back, skirt front and back, and sleeve pattern - including a measurement guide that shows you which measurements you need to take in order to complete the set. It’s a tedious process and definitely takes some practice, so be patient as you’re working through it!

  • If you get stuck, I’m here to help and you can always book a class with me here and we can work through it together.

Happy patternmaking - can’t wait to see what you create!

xo

Emma